When wine folk talk about “terroir,” that elusive term coined by the French to express soil, climate and the sense of place associated with a wine, much of what they’re talking about is geological history. In the Finger Lakes (212 miles from New York), two million years ago, glacial floes drifted south from the Hudson Bay gouging deep trenches into the land before melting, thus forming the lakes. Early inhabitants, the Iroquois, named the region for the 11 parallel bodies of water, which looked to them like they’d been clawed into the earth by the Great Spirit’s hand. The depth of the lakes keeps their temperature stable, allowing vineyards planted on their banks to stay cool in the summertime and warm in the winter…
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