Forget Paris
A DRINKING TOUR OF MONTREAL, WHERE FRENCH TRADITION AND URBAN COOL ARE BON AMIS
Story by CHANTAL MARTINEAU
Photos by RON LEVINE
A quiet gasp could be heard around the French-speaking world when Montreal, the second largest Francophone city next to Paris, made all bars and restaurants smoke-free. Eight months into the new arrangement the city's joie de vivre is still going strong. It continues to attract Francophiles and those nostalgic for Old World charm, but this spirited cosmopolitan center has proven itself a hub of progressiveness, from its politics down to its pub life.
THINGS'LL BE GREAT WHEN YOU'RE ... DOWNTOWN
A haven for drinking and gambling during Prohibition, Montreal was known as Sin City long before Vegas adopted the moniker. The city still plays host to visitors--especially those from south of the border--looking to let loose and overindulge. Be it the unripe drinking age of 18 or the unabashed abundance of strip clubs, guests often feel compelled to hedonism. Centre-Ville, or downtown, is where the revelry usually begins.
Amid the office towers, multi-storied shopping centers and grand hotels of the downtown area is a great selection of happy-hour joints. While the clerks at hotel reception desks are likely to suggest heading for Crescent Street, this dense strip of bars and clubs catering largely to barely legal party girls is not everyone's cup of tea. However, a few gems can be uncovered here. Brutopia, one of the city's many brewpubs, specializes in English-style ales that brewer Chris Downey calls "uncomplicated and straightforward." The half-dozen house beers--including the popular Honey Brown ($5), a blend of Brutopia's dark, malty nut-brown ale and sweet, golden honey beer--are brewed in massive copper drums behind the bar. Live music and inexpensive drinks draw a boisterous clientele.
For a more refined artisanal beer experience, head to Brasserie Benelux, a newer brewpub specializing in Belgian ales. Situated in a converted 1970s bank, the décor is minimalist and industrial with exposed pipes, stainless-steel countertops and pint-glass light fixtures. A VIP room occupies the former bank vault. Owner Jean Beaudoin talks of plans to develop as many as 12 house ales, but for now a selection of locally produced guest beers complements the handful brewed onsite. The chocolaty house stout and rye-noted pale ale ($5 each) are already favorites. "People want to drink good, well-made beer," says Beaudoin, adding that the growing craft-beer movement in Montreal, which exists primarily in the form of brewpubs, could lead to a change in provincial law. Currently, brewpubs are not permitted to distribute their product off-premise. He hopes to one day have his ales sold at other bars and even in bottles at corner shops.
Despite its roots, drinking culture in French Canada is more beer-happy than wine-centric. However, oenophiles will have no trouble finding great wine lists. Pullman is an unlikely wine bar set in a whimsical split-level space designed to recall the luxury train cars invented by George Pullman, for which the bar is named. Its sophisticated, extensive wine list is matched by a tasty array of appetizers, including mini burgers, filet mignon cigars and regional cheeses ($4 to $16). "Having a good wine list in any establishment in Montreal is indispensable these days," says owner Bruno Braun, mastermind behind the design. At first glance, the gigantic chandelier of inverted wine glasses is the only hint at the establishment's specialty. Once the corks are popped and warm hand towels distributed, the bar's concept starts to make perfect sense.
PLATEAU D'HIP
The über-cool Plateau district attracts everyone from bohemian minstrels to trendy jetsetters to whatever Hollywood celebrities happen to be in town. Catering to all of the above is Globe, a swanky restaurant with an always-full bar located on Saint-Laurent Boulevard, also known as the Main. Globe's vast wine reserve is visible from the bar, but even more fun is the cocktail menu, which stars seasonal, rotating house recipes like the Dégel, or Defrost, ($11, see recipe on page 44) made of regionally produced ice cider, Calvados, Goldschlager and Quebec maple syrup.
Furnished in '60s Scandinavian style, Pop! wine bar has up to four sommeliers on staff each night, available to answer any questions about the 250 appellations stocked. By-the-glass choices abound in this retro-chic lounge, but flights of small servings ($2 to $4.50) are the best option for visitors wanting to taste several wines. Specializing in organic and biodynamic wines, Pop! imports much of its inventory privately, selecting vintages based on soil, production methods and overall artistry. A sommelier tastes every bottle opened so visitors never have to worry about a bottle being corked.
Stuffed ostrich heads might seem like a poor décor choice until you see them lining the walls at Bily Kun. This moodily lit hangout is one of the few places you can sample Becherovka, a traditional Czech liqueur with an herbal, spicy flavor. It usually comes mixed with tonic, called a "beton," served with an orange-wedge garnish. The bar also serves up Czech slivovice, an earthy plum brandy that dates back to 18th-century Moravia.
For a masterful cup of coffee, step into Caffe ArtJava. Skilled baristas bring the craft of latte art to Montreal in this high-concept coffeehouse. Its owners import their beans from Ithaca, N.Y.'s acclaimed Gimme! Coffee roastery, including the smoky, hardwood Leftist blend, strong enough to hold its own in a latte ($3.25), and the sculpted, leather-nosed Platinum Blonde. "The coffee scene in Montreal is evolving," says owner Sandro Maltoni. "People have more of a palate for good food, good wine and good coffee."
Caffe Italia is another destination for espresso purists. Legend has it that the modest café, adorned only with a few maps and soccer posters, housed Montreal's first espresso machine. Located in Little Italy, a micro-neighborhood at the northern end of the Plateau, this cozy local hangout is a favorite of young hipsters and old intransigents alike. It's famed for espresso that's earthy and robust.
The other main drag on the Plateau is Saint-Denis, a French version of Saint-Laurent, lined with open-air terraces and al fresco tables in the summertime. In the winter months, it's worth the cold crunch through the snow to get to Aux Deux Marie, a cozy brick-walled café and maison de torréfaction (coffee roastery) owned by two women named Marie. They import 75 varieties of beans from around the world, creating at least 20 of their own blends, which they christen with such fanciful names as Balzac and Voltaire.
THE NEW OLD MONTREAL
Walking the narrow cobblestone roads of the city's historic district feels not only like traveling across the pond to Europe but also back in time. You might forget you're in North America were it not for the overheard conversations, half in French, half in English, often peppered with another language, be it Italian, Greek or Arabic. Handsome cabs, neogothic architecture and traditional Quebecois cuisine (much like French but more rustic, also featuring more moose) make for an interesting backdrop to such an intensely multicultural populace. This contrast is epitomized in Old Montreal's many designer hotel bars.
Boutique hotels are all the rage in metropolises across the globe, and this one is no different. Old Montreal's abundance of beautiful Baroque facades is perhaps why so many hoteliers have converted so many buildings into chic lodgings. Some of the most stylish have become popular nightlife destinations for locals and travelers, such as Hotel Place D'Armes' Suite 701. Located on the first floor, this contemporary lounge features a nightly light show designed to highlight the structural detail of the 19th-century construction. The house mixologists build cocktails like the Bloody Mess ($8, see recipe on page 43), a twist on the Bloody Caesar. (Essentially a Bloody Mary with Clamato instead of tomato juice, the Caesar is popular in Canada but never took off in the U.S.--perhaps due to the clam-juice content.) Suite 701's version is made with smoked oysters.
A few blocks from the iconic silver dome of Marché Bonsecours, a neoclassical building that once housed city hall, is the recently opened Narcisse, the wine bar in the lobby of the picturesque Auberge Du Vieux Port. Director Philippe Bertrand, who also runs the cavernous Les Remparts restaurant located in the cellar, wanted to attract a classy yet cool clientele with the elegant, lounge-like décor. Split 50/50 between French and international appellations--unlike the all-French restaurant reserve--the bar's wine list boasts more than 20 by-the-glass options.
If you happen to be in the neighborhood for tea time (2:30-5 p.m.), head to the Grand Salon at Hotel Le Saint-James, around the corner from the looming neogothic structure of the famed Notre-Dame Basilica. Reservations are recommended for high-tea service ($40), but should you fail to book a table, tea time can easily become cocktail hour. Settle into one of the lush private booths and the chef will send out a small plate of canapés with each order of drinks. Classic aperitifs like martinis or Kir Royale are paired with bite-sized delicacies like foie gras and blueberry compote.
LIVING LARGE IN THE LATIN QUARTER
With one of the city's two French-language universities based at the center of this district, it's crawling with undergrads, but don't let that put you off. Its colorful, hilly streets have a village-y feel to them. People of all walks end up in this area, as several of the big after-hours clubs are located here.
The neighborhood comes to life at night but starts buzzing early in the day with students rushing around and local artists and writers holing up in their favorite cafés for their morning coffee and pastry. One of the quarter's most beloved establishments is Brioche Lyonnaise, a stone-walled patisserie where the house specialty, butter brioche ($1.75), is best enjoyed with a bol de café au lait ($3).
At La Distillerie, owner and barman Philippe Haman pays homage to the métier of classic mixology. He acrobatically shakes concoctions like the Italian Manhattan, consisting of whiskey, limoncello and Galliano liqueur. His cocktails, made with fresh-squeezed fruit, come in regular glasses or 1-liter Mason jars ($13) like the ones Grandma used for her homemade jams--so bring a friend or four.
Have your nightcap at the unpretentious Pub l'Ile Noire. This Scottish tavern stocks more than 140 varieties of scotch, ranging from $5.35 to $438 a dram. Owner Michel Lavallée fell in love with the tipple on his many visits to the Scottish highlands and brought back the best of what he found there, including his favorite, 10-year-aged Talisker. Beers on tap include St-Ambroise, Boréale and Guinness.
WHEN YOU GO
With more restaurants per capita than any city in North America next to New York, Montreal is a foodie's paradise. And, unlike other culinary cities, BYOB options abound and don't carry any unfavorable stigma. In fact, many gastronomic pearls allow you to bring your own--usually without a corkage fee--especially along the quaint cobbled Duluth Street on the Plateau. All alcohol in the province is regulated by the Société des alcools du Québec or SAQ. Wine and beer can be purchased in supermarkets and corner stores, but heading to an SAQ branch ensures knowledgeable advice from staff, and a much better selection. Certain branches have specialties, such as Canadian ice wines or regional vintages. As a large producer of apples and honey, Quebec offers a number of acclaimed ciders and honey wines--sweet, floral craft meads that are often served as an aperitif.
Of course, there's nothing more Quebecois than good, strong beer. Unibroue, a microbrewery located just outside Montreal that sells beer in bottles and on tap in several pubs, is known for such apocalyptically-named strong ales as 8 percent Maudite (Damned), 9 percent Fin du Monde (End of the World), and 10.5 percent Terrible (pronounced Ter-eee-ble).
BRUTOPIA, 1219 Crescent St.; 514-393-9277; brutopia.net
BRASSERIE BENELUX, 245 Sherbrooke W.; 514-543-9750; brasseriebenelux.com
PULLMAN, 3424 Park Ave.; 514-288-7779; pullman-mtl.com
GLOBE, 3455 Saint-Laurent Blvd.; 514-284-3823; restaurantglobe.com
POP!, 250 Pine Ave. E.; 514-287-1648; popbaravin.com
BILY KUN, 354 Mont-Royal Ave. E.; 514-845-5392; bilykun.com
CAFFE ARTJAVA, 837 Mont-Royal Ave. E.; 514-527-9990; caffejavaart.com
CAFFE ITALIA, 6840 Saint-Laurent Blvd.; 514-495-0059
AUX DEUX MARIE, 4329 Saint-Denis St.; 514-844-7246
SUITE 701, 55 Saint-Jacques St. W.; 514-842-1887; hotelplacedarmes.com
NARCISSE, 97 Commune St. E.; 514-876-0081; aubergeduvieuxport.com
GRAND SALON, 355 Saint-Jacques St.; 514-841-1232; hotellestjames.com
BRIOCHE LYONNAISE, 1593 Saint-Denis St.; 514-842-7017
LA DISTILLERIE, 300 Ontario St. E.; 514-288-7915; pubdistillerie.com
PUB L'ILE NOIRE, 342 Ontario St. E.; 514-982-0866; ilenoire.com
UNIBROUE, 80 Des Carrieres, Chambly, Quebec; 450-658-7658; unibroue.com
BLOODY MESS
Suite 701's take on the classic Bloody Caesar is smokier than the traditional Bloody Mary, with a touch of oyster oil.
2 oz. vodka
4 oz. V8 juice
Dash Tabasco sauce
Dash Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbsp. horseradish
1 tsp. smoked oyster oil
Ice
Tools: shaker, strainer
Glass: highball
Garnish: celery salt rim, 1-2 smoked oysters and 1-2 colossal olives
Shake ingredients with ice, strain into an ice-filled glass and garnish.
DÉGEL
From Joao Perreira and Jessica Harnois at Globe. This winter warmer uses two local treasures--ice cider and maple syrup--to sweet success. Fittingly, the name means "defrost."
2 oz. ice cider (still, with no carbonation)
1/4 oz. Calvados
Dash Goldschlager
1/3 oz. Quebec-made maple syrup
Ice
Tools: shaker, strainer
Glass: old fashioned
Garnish: green apple or quince slice (optional)
Shake ingredients with ice, strain into an ice-filled glass and garnish.
